Mark Twain said: “Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.” That is about the best description that I have read about the oldest continuously inhabited city on earth that is held holy by the oldest living civilization. Simply to be there is to touch the living nerve of human history and this is primarily why so many go there.
Situated on the banks of the holy Ganges River and deriving its name from two tributaries, Varana to its north and Asi to the south, Varanasi is the holiest city for Hindus. Of special significance is the fact that the Ganges flows north here instead of southeast as does the rest of the river. Another name for Varanasi is Kashi or the City of Light and this name is derived from the fact that it has been a major center of learning for thousands of years for Hindus, Jains and Buddhists.
Most Hindus visit Varanasi for religious purposes because it is said that taking a dip in the Ganges here will wash away the sins of several births. And if a particular series of dips called the Panch Tirtha is carried out on the same day, it is said that the soul will not take a human birth again. Many non-Hindus perform this ritual too, inspite of the notoriously polluted waters. But a majority of foreigners go to Varanasi simply to experience the oldest city on earth. So visitors to the city can be classified roughly into two groups-religious and non-religious.
Where to stay
If you go to Varanasi mainly for the dips and to explore the riverside, there are a number of hotels along the river banks that range the gamut in price and quality. Most of these can only be reached on foot through narrow, winding alleys. Some have excellent river views and will charge accordingly and others are simply conviently situated. If bathing in the Ganges or exploring the river bank closely is not important for you, there are many three, four and five star hotels in the city that are situated away from the bustle.
How to get there
A very convenient and interesting way to get to Varanasi is by train from New Delhi. Several trains go there but the air-conditioned Rajdhani that runs daily between the capital and Kolkata is the best because it is a very convenient overnight trip. Several airlines also have flights into Varanasi from many major metros. A more intrepid means of transport are the bus services from Delhi, many of which are now equipped with comfortable air-conditioned vehicles.
What to photograph
Without question, the most memorable images of Varanasi you are likely to take back with you will be of the many Ghats or stepped embankments along the Ganges. Since they are situated on the western banks of the river, the most interesting lighting presents itself in the mornings. Subjects can range from the ghats filled with people to the colorful boats on the banks and the funeral pyres that are burning around the clock. During the winter months, the fog adds an eerie lighting effect to the whole panorama. Evening and night scenes of the Aartis or ritual Sanskrit hymns sung on the banks of the river accompanied with fire, drums and cymbals are quite dramatic, the most popular being the one at Dasaswamedh Ghat that takes place daily at 5pm. Many of the best shots are taken from boats on the river. Just ask the boatman and he will get you there early to reserve the best spot.
Safety and hygine
If you are going to take a dip, you should use common sense because of the highly polluted water. Make sure you do not drink or swallow any of the water! A good way to bathe is to simply stand or sit in ankle-deep water and sprinkle some Ganges water over yourself keeping your mouth closed and ensuring that the water touches your head, chest, feet and hands. That is all that is required. Don't even think about swimming in the water.
When to go
Varanasi is hot and wet and humid in the summer and pleasant in winter. The best time to go is between November and March.
Other points of interest nearby
About 10 miles from Varanasi is the important town of Sarnath which is where The Buddha gave his first sermon after becoming enlightened. It is a major pilgrimage destination on the Buddhist circuit and is sacred to Hindus too. There are many stupas and excavated ruins of Buddhist monasteris here as well as a famous deer park. Also nearby is the Ramnagar Palace which was home to the Rajah of Varanasi. The royal museum here contains an incredible collection of vintage cars, clocks, guns, swords and ivory antiques.
