The iconic shape of this monument to love represents India visually to most foreigners and it is more often than not, on top of their India Todo List. Built by the emperor Shah Jehan as a memorial for his wife Mumtaj, the Taj is held to be one of the most beautiful buildings ever built, if not the most beautiful. I have seen it three times, once as a little boy, once as a teenager and once as a father with my wife and teenage son, so I have experienced a full range of emotions while viewing it and can say that it is indeed a sight to behold and to cherish. But if you ask me to describe the Taj, the impression that stands out is not the standard picture one sees on tourist brochures but the vision of it on a moonlit night. Without hesitation, I will recommend it as something that every world traveler should put high up on their list of things to do.
It is unfortunately not as easy as you might expect to see the Taj by moonlight because viewings after dark have been severly curtailed following terrorist threats to the monument. Add a heavy dose of overzealous red tape and your planning becomes a little more difficult but interesting! Tickets to view the Taj must be bought from the Archaeological Survey of India office at least 24 hours before your visit. Many people have been disappointed because of this small, little-known detail on which the bureaucracy is unyielding. A total of 400 visitors are allowed per night and unsold tickets will not be sold for that night's viewing!
Viewings are allowed only on 5 nights each month--on the full moon night, the night immediately preceding it and the following night. Given this narrow window, it makes sense to maximize your chances of success by avoiding nights where bad weather can affect visibility. This means avoiding the winter months between December and February when Agra can experience heavy fog and the monsoon months between April and September, which leave you only March, October and November. Of course, you can get lucky in any month but paranoids should plan for these 3 months. Another detail to be aware of is that moonlight visitors to the Taj are allowed to go no farther than a viewing gallery that is about a 100 yards from the monument itself. So be prepared and take a telephoto or zoom lens if you want close-ups.
An unfortunate wrinkle to this moonlight plan is the fact that day viewing weather is exactly the opposite with winter the best time to visit since the air is the cleanest then and the temeratures the most perfect! And daytime photographs of the Taj can be unusually dramatic and beautiful if you play with the breaking clouds and rain of the monsoon. In my opinion, I would take my chances in the early monsoon--April or May--to shoot for the best of both. A daytime visit is a must in order to see the building up close and to take pictures with you in them. Besides the obligatory pictures from the front, I would suggest exploring from other angles too, both from afar and closer up. Note that the Taj faces south so you will get the best lighting from the front and sides throughout the day though the early mornings and evenings can be spectacular.
Sunday, December 05, 2010
Thursday, December 02, 2010
Visiting Little Tibet: McLeodganj - Dharamsala
There are few leaders of men who have captured the imagination as emphatically as His Holiness the Dalai Lama, the spiritual leader of Tibet. He is also one of the most-recognized people on earth because of the intense publicity that surrounds him owing to his strange circumstances--he has lived in exile in India for fifty years after escaping the rampaging communist Chinese who invaded his homeland. It says a lot about the man that in spite of the violence he has escaped from, he is a winner of the Nobel Peace Prize.
The home of the Tibetan Government In Exile and His Holiness is McLeodganj, a small town in the state of Himachal Pradesh, India. Also called Upper Dharamsala (Lower Dharamsala being the main commercial area), it is located in the foothills of the Himalayas, with a clear view of the snow-clad mountains of Tibet nearby. As one would expect, the scenery is breathtaking and the climate excellent, so McLeodganj is a popular tourist destination which many Indians and non-Indians visit year-round. If you have the inclination, this is an excellent place to experience authentic Tibetan culture among the Tibetan exiles who have set up several cultural centers and important monasteries in the area.
When to go
The best time to visit Dharamsala/McLeodganj depends on your preferences--for me, the monsoon season from July to September is magical, especially in Dharamsala which is one of the rainiest places on earth! It is cool and very comfortable between October and December and you will need a light sweater or jacket in the evenings and at night. The mornings can be very chilly but the daytimes are warm and sunny. January and February is snowtime in Dharamsala/McLeodganj and this is also the time for Losar, the Tibetan New Year Festival. For two weeks, the town erupts in song and dance--an ideal opportunity to observe and photograph Little Tibet. The summer months between March and June are hot although cooler than the scorching plains below.
What to see
McLeodganj is called Litte Tibet for good reason--it not only is home to a large population of ordinary Tibetans but also to the largest population of Tibetan monks outside of Tibet. They live, learn and pray in the several monasteries scattered around the hills nearby. It is a treat to visit these and a couple of the best bets are the Namgyal Monastery situated in the Center For Tibetan Studies. It is the residence of His Holiness the Dalai Lama and the first destination for most visitors, certainly all Buddhists. If you are lucky and the timing is right, you may get to see His Holiness. Across from the Namgyal Monastery is the Tsuglagkhang, a statue of the Buddha. Another monastery worth visiting is Dip Thekchen Choeling which is a center of Buddhist learning and contains ancient manuscripts and scrolls in its library. It has an impressive golden roof that is visible from miles away. If your interest is in Tibetan culture and art, the place to go is the Norbulingka Institue which is recognized as one of the leading institutes in the world. You may also have wondered about the name McLeodganj--it is named after Sir David McLeod, a Lieutenant Governor of the Punjab during the days of the British Raj. This also explains the very English feel of this hill town, one quaint sign of which is the Church of Saint John in the Wilderness nestles in the hills among the deodhar and pine trees. To explore its gravestones is to be carried back in history.
Where to stay
Dharamsala and McLeodganj has many hotels that serve pilgrims and tourists alike. As a tourist, you may want to try one of the old British buildings that have been turned into "Heritage Hotels" like the Cloud End Villa. There are no 5-star hotels yet but several good quality 3-star and budget hotels like the Glenmoor, Jukaso Palace and Him Queen.
How to go
The very interesting and picturesque Kangra Valley Railway made up of narrow-guage "toy" trains go through Kangra which is about 20 miles from Dharamsala and this is an excellent way to visit from Pathankot. The road network is very well developed and there are many good buses and taxis that run up from Delhi. A nearby airport called Gaggal is about 20 miles away and has a few flights a week.
The home of the Tibetan Government In Exile and His Holiness is McLeodganj, a small town in the state of Himachal Pradesh, India. Also called Upper Dharamsala (Lower Dharamsala being the main commercial area), it is located in the foothills of the Himalayas, with a clear view of the snow-clad mountains of Tibet nearby. As one would expect, the scenery is breathtaking and the climate excellent, so McLeodganj is a popular tourist destination which many Indians and non-Indians visit year-round. If you have the inclination, this is an excellent place to experience authentic Tibetan culture among the Tibetan exiles who have set up several cultural centers and important monasteries in the area.
When to go
The best time to visit Dharamsala/McLeodganj depends on your preferences--for me, the monsoon season from July to September is magical, especially in Dharamsala which is one of the rainiest places on earth! It is cool and very comfortable between October and December and you will need a light sweater or jacket in the evenings and at night. The mornings can be very chilly but the daytimes are warm and sunny. January and February is snowtime in Dharamsala/McLeodganj and this is also the time for Losar, the Tibetan New Year Festival. For two weeks, the town erupts in song and dance--an ideal opportunity to observe and photograph Little Tibet. The summer months between March and June are hot although cooler than the scorching plains below.
What to see
McLeodganj is called Litte Tibet for good reason--it not only is home to a large population of ordinary Tibetans but also to the largest population of Tibetan monks outside of Tibet. They live, learn and pray in the several monasteries scattered around the hills nearby. It is a treat to visit these and a couple of the best bets are the Namgyal Monastery situated in the Center For Tibetan Studies. It is the residence of His Holiness the Dalai Lama and the first destination for most visitors, certainly all Buddhists. If you are lucky and the timing is right, you may get to see His Holiness. Across from the Namgyal Monastery is the Tsuglagkhang, a statue of the Buddha. Another monastery worth visiting is Dip Thekchen Choeling which is a center of Buddhist learning and contains ancient manuscripts and scrolls in its library. It has an impressive golden roof that is visible from miles away. If your interest is in Tibetan culture and art, the place to go is the Norbulingka Institue which is recognized as one of the leading institutes in the world. You may also have wondered about the name McLeodganj--it is named after Sir David McLeod, a Lieutenant Governor of the Punjab during the days of the British Raj. This also explains the very English feel of this hill town, one quaint sign of which is the Church of Saint John in the Wilderness nestles in the hills among the deodhar and pine trees. To explore its gravestones is to be carried back in history.
Where to stay
Dharamsala and McLeodganj has many hotels that serve pilgrims and tourists alike. As a tourist, you may want to try one of the old British buildings that have been turned into "Heritage Hotels" like the Cloud End Villa. There are no 5-star hotels yet but several good quality 3-star and budget hotels like the Glenmoor, Jukaso Palace and Him Queen.
How to go
The very interesting and picturesque Kangra Valley Railway made up of narrow-guage "toy" trains go through Kangra which is about 20 miles from Dharamsala and this is an excellent way to visit from Pathankot. The road network is very well developed and there are many good buses and taxis that run up from Delhi. A nearby airport called Gaggal is about 20 miles away and has a few flights a week.
Friday, November 19, 2010
Varanasi - City of Light
Mark Twain said: “Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.” That is about the best description that I have read about the oldest continuously inhabited city on earth that is held holy by the oldest living civilization. Simply to be there is to touch the living nerve of human history and this is primarily why so many go there.
Situated on the banks of the holy Ganges River and deriving its name from two tributaries, Varana to its north and Asi to the south, Varanasi is the holiest city for Hindus. Of special significance is the fact that the Ganges flows north here instead of southeast as does the rest of the river. Another name for Varanasi is Kashi or the City of Light and this name is derived from the fact that it has been a major center of learning for thousands of years for Hindus, Jains and Buddhists.
Most Hindus visit Varanasi for religious purposes because it is said that taking a dip in the Ganges here will wash away the sins of several births. And if a particular series of dips called the Panch Tirtha is carried out on the same day, it is said that the soul will not take a human birth again. Many non-Hindus perform this ritual too, inspite of the notoriously polluted waters. But a majority of foreigners go to Varanasi simply to experience the oldest city on earth. So visitors to the city can be classified roughly into two groups-religious and non-religious.
Where to stay
If you go to Varanasi mainly for the dips and to explore the riverside, there are a number of hotels along the river banks that range the gamut in price and quality. Most of these can only be reached on foot through narrow, winding alleys. Some have excellent river views and will charge accordingly and others are simply conviently situated. If bathing in the Ganges or exploring the river bank closely is not important for you, there are many three, four and five star hotels in the city that are situated away from the bustle.
How to get there
A very convenient and interesting way to get to Varanasi is by train from New Delhi. Several trains go there but the air-conditioned Rajdhani that runs daily between the capital and Kolkata is the best because it is a very convenient overnight trip. Several airlines also have flights into Varanasi from many major metros. A more intrepid means of transport are the bus services from Delhi, many of which are now equipped with comfortable air-conditioned vehicles.
What to photograph
Without question, the most memorable images of Varanasi you are likely to take back with you will be of the many Ghats or stepped embankments along the Ganges. Since they are situated on the western banks of the river, the most interesting lighting presents itself in the mornings. Subjects can range from the ghats filled with people to the colorful boats on the banks and the funeral pyres that are burning around the clock. During the winter months, the fog adds an eerie lighting effect to the whole panorama. Evening and night scenes of the Aartis or ritual Sanskrit hymns sung on the banks of the river accompanied with fire, drums and cymbals are quite dramatic, the most popular being the one at Dasaswamedh Ghat that takes place daily at 5pm. Many of the best shots are taken from boats on the river. Just ask the boatman and he will get you there early to reserve the best spot.
Safety and hygine
If you are going to take a dip, you should use common sense because of the highly polluted water. Make sure you do not drink or swallow any of the water! A good way to bathe is to simply stand or sit in ankle-deep water and sprinkle some Ganges water over yourself keeping your mouth closed and ensuring that the water touches your head, chest, feet and hands. That is all that is required. Don't even think about swimming in the water.
When to go
Varanasi is hot and wet and humid in the summer and pleasant in winter. The best time to go is between November and March.
Other points of interest nearby
About 10 miles from Varanasi is the important town of Sarnath which is where The Buddha gave his first sermon after becoming enlightened. It is a major pilgrimage destination on the Buddhist circuit and is sacred to Hindus too. There are many stupas and excavated ruins of Buddhist monasteris here as well as a famous deer park. Also nearby is the Ramnagar Palace which was home to the Rajah of Varanasi. The royal museum here contains an incredible collection of vintage cars, clocks, guns, swords and ivory antiques.
Situated on the banks of the holy Ganges River and deriving its name from two tributaries, Varana to its north and Asi to the south, Varanasi is the holiest city for Hindus. Of special significance is the fact that the Ganges flows north here instead of southeast as does the rest of the river. Another name for Varanasi is Kashi or the City of Light and this name is derived from the fact that it has been a major center of learning for thousands of years for Hindus, Jains and Buddhists.
Most Hindus visit Varanasi for religious purposes because it is said that taking a dip in the Ganges here will wash away the sins of several births. And if a particular series of dips called the Panch Tirtha is carried out on the same day, it is said that the soul will not take a human birth again. Many non-Hindus perform this ritual too, inspite of the notoriously polluted waters. But a majority of foreigners go to Varanasi simply to experience the oldest city on earth. So visitors to the city can be classified roughly into two groups-religious and non-religious.
Where to stay
If you go to Varanasi mainly for the dips and to explore the riverside, there are a number of hotels along the river banks that range the gamut in price and quality. Most of these can only be reached on foot through narrow, winding alleys. Some have excellent river views and will charge accordingly and others are simply conviently situated. If bathing in the Ganges or exploring the river bank closely is not important for you, there are many three, four and five star hotels in the city that are situated away from the bustle.
How to get there
A very convenient and interesting way to get to Varanasi is by train from New Delhi. Several trains go there but the air-conditioned Rajdhani that runs daily between the capital and Kolkata is the best because it is a very convenient overnight trip. Several airlines also have flights into Varanasi from many major metros. A more intrepid means of transport are the bus services from Delhi, many of which are now equipped with comfortable air-conditioned vehicles.
What to photograph
Without question, the most memorable images of Varanasi you are likely to take back with you will be of the many Ghats or stepped embankments along the Ganges. Since they are situated on the western banks of the river, the most interesting lighting presents itself in the mornings. Subjects can range from the ghats filled with people to the colorful boats on the banks and the funeral pyres that are burning around the clock. During the winter months, the fog adds an eerie lighting effect to the whole panorama. Evening and night scenes of the Aartis or ritual Sanskrit hymns sung on the banks of the river accompanied with fire, drums and cymbals are quite dramatic, the most popular being the one at Dasaswamedh Ghat that takes place daily at 5pm. Many of the best shots are taken from boats on the river. Just ask the boatman and he will get you there early to reserve the best spot.
Safety and hygine
If you are going to take a dip, you should use common sense because of the highly polluted water. Make sure you do not drink or swallow any of the water! A good way to bathe is to simply stand or sit in ankle-deep water and sprinkle some Ganges water over yourself keeping your mouth closed and ensuring that the water touches your head, chest, feet and hands. That is all that is required. Don't even think about swimming in the water.
When to go
Varanasi is hot and wet and humid in the summer and pleasant in winter. The best time to go is between November and March.
Other points of interest nearby
About 10 miles from Varanasi is the important town of Sarnath which is where The Buddha gave his first sermon after becoming enlightened. It is a major pilgrimage destination on the Buddhist circuit and is sacred to Hindus too. There are many stupas and excavated ruins of Buddhist monasteris here as well as a famous deer park. Also nearby is the Ramnagar Palace which was home to the Rajah of Varanasi. The royal museum here contains an incredible collection of vintage cars, clocks, guns, swords and ivory antiques.
Tuesday, October 26, 2010
7-Day Northeast India: Guwahati, Kaziranga, Jorhat, Tawang.
One of the relatively undiscovered corners of India is its Northeast, bordering China, Tibet, Burma and Bangladesh. It is comprised of a group of states called The Seven Sisters--Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Meghalaya, Manipur, Mizoram, Nagaland and Tripura. The area is a mixture of Buddhist, Christian and Hindu cultures and it is possible to travel by road in a single day from sweltering riverine tropical rain forests to frozen, rocky Himalayan heights while passing through Alpine vistas, all of an unparalleled, dramatic beauty. This is a must-do area for the jaded traveler who has "seen it all" and outlined below is a one-week tour that will take in the most important highlights. The best time to visit is between April and October.
The starting point for any Northeast India tour should be Guwahati in Assam because it is the road, rail and air hub for the entire region that connects to the rest of India. It is also the most convenient jump-off point for your Northeast visit. Although air service is available to all of the states, it is best to travel by road whenever you can in order to take in the local sights.
A one-week tour will allow you to take in the famous Kaziranga National Park, a Tea Estate, a Brahmaputra cruise and Tawang Monastery in Arunachal Pradesh.
Day 1: Guwahati and Brahmaputra cruise
There are a number of river cruises available from Guwahati and in the interests of time, the best option is to take a 4 or 6 hour cruise down the Brahmaputra river, the widest in the world. The scenery is spectacular. In Guwahati, the best hotels to stay in are the Brahmaputra Ashok in the center of town which has outstanding views of the mighty river and the Tata-run Ginger Hotel which is located on the outskirts. The latter is best if you have a tight schedule and need to get in and out of Guwahati quickly as traffic jams can be a major problem during office rush hours. You should make all your hotel, safari and transport reservations before hand although it is possible to do these locally too. If you are non-Indian, your most important task is to arrange for your Restricted Area Permit at least 3 weeks ahead of time in order to visit Arunachal Pradesh. If you are going to be in Delhi, you can arrange the permit at Arunachal House. A good tip is to book everything, specially your hotels in Arunachal, at least a couple of months in advance if not more. Make certain that your drivers have been doing these routes for a while and are familiar with the roads which can be quite an adventure by themselves. Again, the tourist officers at Arunachal House in Delhi will be able to give you names and phone numbers.
Day 2: Guwahati to Kaziranga.
You should take a private SUV which can be arranged by your hotel if you haven't made arrangemets already. It is a 4-hour drive which will take you through scenic paddy fields and tea plantations among the hills, passing through a couple of small towns. You can stop along the way to enjoy a cup of tea in the middle of the lush scenery because this is where a large portion of the world's tea supply comes from, more on which later.
You will spend the night in Kaziranga and here you should opt for the Forest Lodge which is an old, colonial-era bungalow on stilts. It is spartan but clean and imparts the right ambiance. If you can't get the lodge, there are several acceptable modern hotels that are available nearby. If you have made reservations, you will be going on an elephant safari early next morning before the sun comes up, so retire early. The elephants are well trained and quite comfortable to ride on but if you are hesitant, you can opt for a jeep safari as a poor second choice! Kaziranga is an outstanding success both for having brought the Asian one-horned rhino from the brink of extinction and for having turned around the local population of the Royal Bengal tiger. You will almost certainly see several rhinos, hog deer, wild pigs, a wide range of birds including the hornbill during your safari and, if you are lucky, even a tiger!
Day 3: Tea Estate visit in Jorhat
You will be done with your safari by lunchtime, so after lunch, you should head out to Jorhat which will take you about 2 hours. The best place to stay is in one of the tea estate bungalows run by the Welcome Group. These bungalows were built by the British planters a century ago and will give you a pretty accurate idea of how life was for the Burra Sahibs of the Raj. You can tour the garden to watch the leaf being plucked and then the factory to see how the leaf is turned into tea. Here is your chance to buy the best and freshest tea you will every get! If you like full-bodied tea, ask for CTC and if you prefer aroma, ask for Orthodox. A safe compromise if you don't know what you are doing is to simply ask for a Blend and the Factory Manager will make one up for you. Photography is usually not allowed inside a tea factory.
A little detail for the history buff--on the way to Jorhat, you will pass Dergaon (literally translation: "one and a half villages"!) which was a major staging base and airstrip for the Allies during World War Two. From here, many men and materials flew over and drove through The Hump into Burma and China. This is ground zero of the old China-Burma-India (CBI) theater.
Day 4: Jorhat-Bhalukpong
Leave Jorhat after breakfast and keep your Restricted Area Permit handy because in about 4 hours, you will need it to enter Arunachal Pradesh just after leaving the town of Tezpur in Assam. It is about a 6 hour drive from Jorhat to Bhalukpong where you will spend the night and you will pass another beautiful National Park called Nameri. Unfortunately, hotels are hit and miss in Arunachal and your best bets are the Government Guest Houses that need to be reserved well in advance. In a pinch, there are several basic hotels available too.
Day 5: Bhalukpong-Tawang
This is an arduous trip of 10 hours through winding mountain roads, many parts of which are being upgraded. The saving grace is that it is one of the most spectacular as well! You will be climbing beyond 10,000 feet ASL, so keep your warm clothes handy. On the way, you will meet some of the most isolated people in the world--the Monpa--who also happen to be among the friendliest and simplest. They follow a mix of Buddhist and Animist religions while the inhabitants of Tawang proper are Buddhist and follow a strain of Tibetan Buddhism. The local delicacy is Thukpa, a noodle and meat stew along with Momo, a pork dumpling. The locals love to accompany these with very hot chillies so be warned. In fact, Tezpur is home to the worlds hottest chilli called the Nagajolokia which is about five times "hotter" than the fiery Habanero! Once you reach Tawang, you will need to sleep off the trip and it is best to do so early.
Day 6: Tour Tawang
Called Little Tibet, Tawang is home to the 400 year-old Tawang Monastery. It was also the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama. It is also the place where the current Dalai Lama (the 14th) entered India when he fled Tibet in 1952 following the Chinese invasion of his country. This is also where a badly-equipped Indian Army garrison fought to the last man against the Chinese when they invaded India in 1962. The area is heavily guarded now, hence the need for the permit, and reminders of the war are everywhere.
Places to visit in Tawang besides the monastery is Jaswantgarh, an old fortress up beyond the treeline perched on windswept, rocky and snowy peaks. A truly spectacular and sobering place. Another great trip is to Pankang Teng Tso lake which is about a half hour from Tawang. This is one of the most beautiful of the many crystal-clear high-altitude lakes in the area. Don't overdo it in Tawang because of the altitude and prepare to leave early the next morning.
Day 7: Tawang-Tezpur
This 13-hour journey will take you past more high-altitude lakes ringed with rhododendrons. There are a few orchid farms here too. If you time your departure correctly, you should be able to drive directly to Tezpur airport and catch a flight to Kolkata or Delhi. If not, you can do that the first thing the next morning.
This is obviously a hectic pace and if you would like it to be more leisurely, you should allow 10 days for it. Alternatively, you can omit the tea garden visit in Jorhat and head directly to Bhalukpong from Kaziranga National Park. Another alternative is to avail of helicopter service to Tawang from Guwahati and air service between Guwahati, Jorhat and Tezpur. Jorhat and Tezpur are the closest airports to Kaziranga.
The starting point for any Northeast India tour should be Guwahati in Assam because it is the road, rail and air hub for the entire region that connects to the rest of India. It is also the most convenient jump-off point for your Northeast visit. Although air service is available to all of the states, it is best to travel by road whenever you can in order to take in the local sights.
A one-week tour will allow you to take in the famous Kaziranga National Park, a Tea Estate, a Brahmaputra cruise and Tawang Monastery in Arunachal Pradesh.
Day 1: Guwahati and Brahmaputra cruise
There are a number of river cruises available from Guwahati and in the interests of time, the best option is to take a 4 or 6 hour cruise down the Brahmaputra river, the widest in the world. The scenery is spectacular. In Guwahati, the best hotels to stay in are the Brahmaputra Ashok in the center of town which has outstanding views of the mighty river and the Tata-run Ginger Hotel which is located on the outskirts. The latter is best if you have a tight schedule and need to get in and out of Guwahati quickly as traffic jams can be a major problem during office rush hours. You should make all your hotel, safari and transport reservations before hand although it is possible to do these locally too. If you are non-Indian, your most important task is to arrange for your Restricted Area Permit at least 3 weeks ahead of time in order to visit Arunachal Pradesh. If you are going to be in Delhi, you can arrange the permit at Arunachal House. A good tip is to book everything, specially your hotels in Arunachal, at least a couple of months in advance if not more. Make certain that your drivers have been doing these routes for a while and are familiar with the roads which can be quite an adventure by themselves. Again, the tourist officers at Arunachal House in Delhi will be able to give you names and phone numbers.
Day 2: Guwahati to Kaziranga.
You should take a private SUV which can be arranged by your hotel if you haven't made arrangemets already. It is a 4-hour drive which will take you through scenic paddy fields and tea plantations among the hills, passing through a couple of small towns. You can stop along the way to enjoy a cup of tea in the middle of the lush scenery because this is where a large portion of the world's tea supply comes from, more on which later.
You will spend the night in Kaziranga and here you should opt for the Forest Lodge which is an old, colonial-era bungalow on stilts. It is spartan but clean and imparts the right ambiance. If you can't get the lodge, there are several acceptable modern hotels that are available nearby. If you have made reservations, you will be going on an elephant safari early next morning before the sun comes up, so retire early. The elephants are well trained and quite comfortable to ride on but if you are hesitant, you can opt for a jeep safari as a poor second choice! Kaziranga is an outstanding success both for having brought the Asian one-horned rhino from the brink of extinction and for having turned around the local population of the Royal Bengal tiger. You will almost certainly see several rhinos, hog deer, wild pigs, a wide range of birds including the hornbill during your safari and, if you are lucky, even a tiger!
Day 3: Tea Estate visit in Jorhat
You will be done with your safari by lunchtime, so after lunch, you should head out to Jorhat which will take you about 2 hours. The best place to stay is in one of the tea estate bungalows run by the Welcome Group. These bungalows were built by the British planters a century ago and will give you a pretty accurate idea of how life was for the Burra Sahibs of the Raj. You can tour the garden to watch the leaf being plucked and then the factory to see how the leaf is turned into tea. Here is your chance to buy the best and freshest tea you will every get! If you like full-bodied tea, ask for CTC and if you prefer aroma, ask for Orthodox. A safe compromise if you don't know what you are doing is to simply ask for a Blend and the Factory Manager will make one up for you. Photography is usually not allowed inside a tea factory.
A little detail for the history buff--on the way to Jorhat, you will pass Dergaon (literally translation: "one and a half villages"!) which was a major staging base and airstrip for the Allies during World War Two. From here, many men and materials flew over and drove through The Hump into Burma and China. This is ground zero of the old China-Burma-India (CBI) theater.
Day 4: Jorhat-Bhalukpong
Leave Jorhat after breakfast and keep your Restricted Area Permit handy because in about 4 hours, you will need it to enter Arunachal Pradesh just after leaving the town of Tezpur in Assam. It is about a 6 hour drive from Jorhat to Bhalukpong where you will spend the night and you will pass another beautiful National Park called Nameri. Unfortunately, hotels are hit and miss in Arunachal and your best bets are the Government Guest Houses that need to be reserved well in advance. In a pinch, there are several basic hotels available too.
Day 5: Bhalukpong-Tawang
This is an arduous trip of 10 hours through winding mountain roads, many parts of which are being upgraded. The saving grace is that it is one of the most spectacular as well! You will be climbing beyond 10,000 feet ASL, so keep your warm clothes handy. On the way, you will meet some of the most isolated people in the world--the Monpa--who also happen to be among the friendliest and simplest. They follow a mix of Buddhist and Animist religions while the inhabitants of Tawang proper are Buddhist and follow a strain of Tibetan Buddhism. The local delicacy is Thukpa, a noodle and meat stew along with Momo, a pork dumpling. The locals love to accompany these with very hot chillies so be warned. In fact, Tezpur is home to the worlds hottest chilli called the Nagajolokia which is about five times "hotter" than the fiery Habanero! Once you reach Tawang, you will need to sleep off the trip and it is best to do so early.
Day 6: Tour TawangCalled Little Tibet, Tawang is home to the 400 year-old Tawang Monastery. It was also the birthplace of the 6th Dalai Lama. It is also the place where the current Dalai Lama (the 14th) entered India when he fled Tibet in 1952 following the Chinese invasion of his country. This is also where a badly-equipped Indian Army garrison fought to the last man against the Chinese when they invaded India in 1962. The area is heavily guarded now, hence the need for the permit, and reminders of the war are everywhere.
Places to visit in Tawang besides the monastery is Jaswantgarh, an old fortress up beyond the treeline perched on windswept, rocky and snowy peaks. A truly spectacular and sobering place. Another great trip is to Pankang Teng Tso lake which is about a half hour from Tawang. This is one of the most beautiful of the many crystal-clear high-altitude lakes in the area. Don't overdo it in Tawang because of the altitude and prepare to leave early the next morning.
Day 7: Tawang-Tezpur
This 13-hour journey will take you past more high-altitude lakes ringed with rhododendrons. There are a few orchid farms here too. If you time your departure correctly, you should be able to drive directly to Tezpur airport and catch a flight to Kolkata or Delhi. If not, you can do that the first thing the next morning.
This is obviously a hectic pace and if you would like it to be more leisurely, you should allow 10 days for it. Alternatively, you can omit the tea garden visit in Jorhat and head directly to Bhalukpong from Kaziranga National Park. Another alternative is to avail of helicopter service to Tawang from Guwahati and air service between Guwahati, Jorhat and Tezpur. Jorhat and Tezpur are the closest airports to Kaziranga.
Thursday, May 06, 2010
Match seasons to places you will visit
One of the most common questions I get asked by people in the US who have an interest in visiting India is "what would you suggest?". My answer is always another question--what do you want out of your India visit? India and the USA are both very similar in their geographic and cultural diversity, so if one knows in advance what one wants to focus on, it become a lot easier to nail down the places to see.
Regardless of where one goes though, it is important to note that the seasons in India will play a big role in the success of any visit and just like most people probably wouldn't want to visit Alaska in winter, they should probably not go to the Himalayas in winter either. And just like it is better to visit Death Valley, NV in the winter, it is also probably better to visit most of the Indian plains in winter too because they can be almost as hot! What follows is a suggested list of places in India to visit in the different Indian seasons which will help you in planning a visit.
Winter/Fall/Autumn(October - February):
A large part of India, including some of the lower-altitude 'hill stations' like Darjeeling and Shillong in the Northeast and Munnar and Kodaikanal in the South are cool and bracing in winter and fall. There are higher-elevation hill stations like Kullu and Shimla that are snowbound and have winter sports at this time of year. Other places that have pleasant weather at this time are the major metros of Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Bangalore and Kolkata along with popular tourist places like Agra, Khajuraho, Jaipur, Kerala and Goa.
Spring/summer (March - September):
You can witness many spring festivals all over India, including Holi, the festival of colors in March. Most of the Himalayan region and its hill stations are the perfect places to visit, including Darjeeling, Mussoorie, Nainital and Shimla. The higher Himalayas in Arunachal Pradesh, Ladakh, Himachal Pradesh, Uttaranchal and Uttar Pradesh, are stunning in the summertime.
The Monsoon season (June - September):
The monsoons, which lash the whole of India with heavy rain, are unique to this part of the world and contrary to expectations, it is possible to both travel during the monsoons as well as enjoy it. This is actually my favorite season because it arrives at the height of a hot, scorching summer and produces the unforgettable scent of fresh, wet earth. Although the first downpours are very heavy, often lasting many days continuously, they do typically taper off after which you can expect rain every day for a couple of hours more or less during the season. The weather can be very unpredictable at this time as also the temperatures. It is always wise to have a light waterproof jacket with a hood handy if not a foldable rain-proof poncho. Mumbai and Kolkata receive the most rain and Delhi, Chennai and Bangalore the least. Incidentally, the rainiest place on earth is Cherrapunji in Meghalaya where it rains every single day of the year!
This list should be used only as a rough guide and is not to suggest that you should not visit the places mentioned during the 'wrong' season. Just as it may be a refreshing change to visit Yellowstone in winter, it may be a pleasant surprise to visit these places "off season".
Regardless of where one goes though, it is important to note that the seasons in India will play a big role in the success of any visit and just like most people probably wouldn't want to visit Alaska in winter, they should probably not go to the Himalayas in winter either. And just like it is better to visit Death Valley, NV in the winter, it is also probably better to visit most of the Indian plains in winter too because they can be almost as hot! What follows is a suggested list of places in India to visit in the different Indian seasons which will help you in planning a visit.
Winter/Fall/Autumn(October - February):
A large part of India, including some of the lower-altitude 'hill stations' like Darjeeling and Shillong in the Northeast and Munnar and Kodaikanal in the South are cool and bracing in winter and fall. There are higher-elevation hill stations like Kullu and Shimla that are snowbound and have winter sports at this time of year. Other places that have pleasant weather at this time are the major metros of Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai, Bangalore and Kolkata along with popular tourist places like Agra, Khajuraho, Jaipur, Kerala and Goa.
Spring/summer (March - September):
You can witness many spring festivals all over India, including Holi, the festival of colors in March. Most of the Himalayan region and its hill stations are the perfect places to visit, including Darjeeling, Mussoorie, Nainital and Shimla. The higher Himalayas in Arunachal Pradesh, Ladakh, Himachal Pradesh, Uttaranchal and Uttar Pradesh, are stunning in the summertime.
The Monsoon season (June - September):
The monsoons, which lash the whole of India with heavy rain, are unique to this part of the world and contrary to expectations, it is possible to both travel during the monsoons as well as enjoy it. This is actually my favorite season because it arrives at the height of a hot, scorching summer and produces the unforgettable scent of fresh, wet earth. Although the first downpours are very heavy, often lasting many days continuously, they do typically taper off after which you can expect rain every day for a couple of hours more or less during the season. The weather can be very unpredictable at this time as also the temperatures. It is always wise to have a light waterproof jacket with a hood handy if not a foldable rain-proof poncho. Mumbai and Kolkata receive the most rain and Delhi, Chennai and Bangalore the least. Incidentally, the rainiest place on earth is Cherrapunji in Meghalaya where it rains every single day of the year!
This list should be used only as a rough guide and is not to suggest that you should not visit the places mentioned during the 'wrong' season. Just as it may be a refreshing change to visit Yellowstone in winter, it may be a pleasant surprise to visit these places "off season".
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